I feel the unexpected, soft brush of wings from a low-flying hornbill as I travel by bicycle rickshaw in the Vietnamese riverside village of Sa Dec, where life plods on much as it has done for centuries, in a region defined by the mighty Mekong River. I mark it down as another unique experience on a cruise that is delivering many. (Later, I spy deep-fried tarantula among the interesting snacks within Sa Dec’s food market.) At sunset, I sit on the top deck, a lemongrass gimlet in hand, watching the edges of the river gently twinkle with lights cast from fish farms as the sky morphs from tangerine to inky purple. Cruising at 10 miles per hour, I’m losing happy hours to soaking up all every detail of river life: a never-ending convoy of fishing and cargo boats, many painted with bright red eyes to ward off evil spirits, while waving to every passing captain and his wife, going about daily chores of pegging out washing or cooking on deck-top stoves. Life aboard Viking Cruises’ newest river boat, the Viking Tonle, is certainly never dull. Built in 2025 and named after the Khmer word for “fresh water”, this vessel, 259 feet long and 36 feet wide, was crafted for navigating the Mekong’s variable depths with a flat-bottomed, shallow-draft design that prevents it from running aground during seasonal low water, and allows easy access into ports that larger boats can’t reach.
All in the Detail
Although the exterior of this triple-decker boat recalls vintage paddle steamers (minus the paddlewheel), the interior of Tonle is pure Scandinavian design. Think light-filled spaces throughout, Viking’s trademark floor-to-ceiling windows, and a minimalist, neutral aesthetic with accents of orange, blue, and teal. Ultra contemporary though it may be, the atmosphere is of bygone luxury travel, largely due to the exceptional service delivered by 58 crew to just 80 passengers. The 40 river-facing staterooms (which can be configured as doubles or twin) are spread across three categories. On the lower and middle decks, French Balcony cabins, at 305 square feet, have floor-to-ceiling sliding windows that allow the ever-changing river view to star. Of the same square footage, but on the upper deck, are twelve Veranda Suites with small step-out terraces. There’s just enough room for a couple to sit side by side on a bench seat, but, even so, I appreciate this breath of freshness. Also on this level are two enviable 735-square-foot Explorer Suites boasting separate bedrooms and living areas and a tub in the bathroom. Wrap-around verandas, large enough for loungers, complete their unique attractions.
All rooms are serviced twice daily by dedicated private stewards, who you’ll get to know by name. A safe, hair dryer, well-stocked mini-fridge, bathrobe, and slippers come as standard, as does a flatscreen TV upon which complimentary movies-on-demand can be enjoyed. Nice touches include armchairs positioned for river gazing, black-and-white photographic artwork featuring life along the Mekong, and frosted windows in the shower that turn clear at the press of a button from which I can watch barn swallows swoop and soar (though I’m careful to time this right so as not to give the passing crew of a fishing vessel a surprise).
Jumping Ship
Excursions are twice daily, and guests are often ferried by sampans: traditional wooden boats that have navigated the Mekong’s smaller tributaries for centuries, and which deliver you to the heart of rural life. In Kampong Cham, we visit a silk-weaving cooperative nestled amid mulberry trees; on another day we go in a convoy of tuk-tuks into the countryside, calling in at a farm where fields are flush with taro and tobacco in bloom. Among the 16 guided shore visits, not to be missed are the sobering Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, honoring those killed during Pol Pot’s regime in the 1970s, and the Buddhist Monastery of Oudong, part of the temple-mountain complex at Oudong Meanchey, a former royal capital for 250 years.
Sailing into Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh, at sunset, when the golden-roofed, riverside Royal Palace is at its most resplendent, takes my breath away.
Food, Glorious Food
Fabulous food is very much a focus, with an emphasis on organic and locally grown; the kitchen team purchases the finest of fresh produce at every port. My favorite spot for alfresco breakfasts and lunches is Sky Bar, where I feast on the likes of banh mi — the lightest of baguettes filled with pickles, coriander, mint, and pork. Dinner is served in the second-floor restaurant, where you can also opt for an air-conditioned breakfast and lunch. At cocktail hour (though cocktails flow at any time), we gather in the lounge to hear what our charismatic Cambodian and Hungarian chefs are dishing up. (“Save room for dessert, it’s calorie-free!” is the favorite joke.) With daily changing menus of both international cuisine and regional dishes, guests can pick and mix from either; think a green papaya salad followed by filet mignon. Without exception, I plump for tasting dishes unique to the place we’re in, such as fish amok, considered the national dish of Cambodia. Flavors are fresh, aromatic, and layered, blending tastes of sweet, sour, and salty. Cruising on Tonle is an all-inclusive experience with drinks included with all meals, but there is the option to upgrade to a “Silver” drinks package to include a wider selection of premium wines and spirits at any hour.
Busy Doing Nothing
There’s just one full “cruising day” during the seven days aboard, when we cross the border from Vietnam into Cambodia. While some guests book a massage in Tonle’s small spa or head to the gym, most settle amid the potted palms on the sun deck by the pool (not large enough to do more than a few strokes in but perfect for a cooling dip). Should I desire a moment alone, it’s easy to find a quiet nook to disappear into, such as the library (next to the 24-hour tea and coffee station and small boutique, offering souvenirs relevant to the location), or on the small second-floor deck at the rear (a designated smoking area but usually passenger-free). Onboard entertainment includes regular enhancement lectures, ranging from life on the Mekong River to modern Cambodian history, and performances, such as traditional Cambodian dance, given by visiting local artists.
Last Word
This is a cruise that delivers cultural enlightenment and fabulous food with many a unique experience along the way. If you’re expecting bingo, cabaret, and all-you-can-eat buffets, you may wish to look elsewhere; this cruise embraces a quieter, slow-travel philosophy with a focus on engaging with local people and their environment.
The Magnificent Mekong Cruise is a 15-day itinerary, beginning with a 2-day land extension in Ho Chi Minh City and ending in Hanoi. Time spent between these two vibrant cities includes a 7-day cruise plus three days spent in Siem Reap to explore the temples of Angkor Wat.
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