On the Truffle Trail
Come autumn, every waiter worth his salt, working in the Langhe region of Piedmont in northern Italy, has two words on his tongue: “With truffle?” The inquiry comes with a presentation of said white truffle (the rare Tuber magnatum) on a silver platter … though with their tumor-like form and g
Island Hopping The Four Seasons in The Maldives
These days, there are a few new boxes to tick when I’m choosing a luxury holiday. It used to be the size of the bed, and if my suite had a plunge pool; now it’s how green the resort is and what conservation projects they’re involved in. Sounds like a headache? It doesn’t have to […]
The Cape of Good Times in Cap Ferrat
It was King Leopold II of Belgium who, in the early 1900s, first cottoned on that it would be a shrewd idea to buy up land on Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (known to most simply as Cap Ferrat). He snapped up the region’s grandest house — Villa Cedres, built in 1804 — which he embellished with botanica
Wine & Dine in Copenhagen’s Vesterbro District
Copenhagen is having a moment in the culinary limelight as Europe’s coolest foodie capital, with rough and ready Vesterbro the most exciting area of the city in which to try the latest food trends. Take a stroll along the streets of Slagterboderne (meaning “butcher’s stalls”) and Flaesketorv
Sea, Sky, and Mangroves
“That fish is walking!” gasps my wide-eyed son Freddie, pointing to a sludgy mud bank within Langkawi’s mangrove forest. He is right. Or rather, he is almost right. For this amphibious mudskipper is, in fact, shimmying with one fin fanned out like a sail on a boat; just one in a menagerie of s
Desperately Seeking Serenissmia
Pictures of wildlife returning to Venice’s canals, posted on social media during last year’s Covid-19 lockdown, were widely shared around the world. Images of chilled out ducks nesting on the canal banks and imperious swans reclaiming the canals, gliding through water the clearest and bluest it
Amsterdam: Connoisseurs of Cozy
I’m sitting in Café Papeneiland in Amsterdam, when the feeling of gezelligheid hits me. It’s what this city’s bruin cafés — the Dutch answer to the pub — are most famous for inducing: a lovely, warm feeling of contentment. To be gezellig is to be cozy, to feel togetherness, to enjoy comp
