A Taste of Trani

by Jon Fleming

As you walk around Trani’s stunning, sparkling harbor, with the weathered fishermen fixing their nets in the shadow of a monumental Romanesque cathedral, something tells you that this town is going to be special. But you might not expect this unheralded town of 50,000 people to have developed such a sophisticated food scene that’s out of all proportion to its size. 

However, if you were to put together a list of ingredients for a foodie mecca, then Trani seems to have it all. It’s in Puglia, Italy’s deep south, about half an hour north of the cruise port of Bari. The presence of so many fishing boats in that harbor ensures that there’s a ready supply of the freshest seafood from the Adriatic. Puglia’s omnipresent olive groves produce large quantities of the highest quality olive oil. This little town can also boast six small-scale manufacturers of mozzarella cheese … and the neighboring (but little-known) Castel del Monte region produces some really excellent, and affordable, wines.

To add to this, in the last decade Trani’s restaurant scene has gone from strength to strength, as three of its restaurants have gained Michelin stars, and a “virtuous circle” has developed, pushing up standards across the board, so that even the most unassuming restaurants produce imaginative tasting menus. 

Trani’s Top Trio

Three top-class establishments vie for the title of Trani’s premier restaurant. Specializing in seafood, Le Lampare al Fortino is situated in an ancient fortress guarding the entrance to Trani’s harbor. It first gained a Michelin star in 2017, and offers opulent tasting menus starting at €100 ($108). 

Further along the coast, Casa Sgarra, run by three brothers, offers another fine dining experience, with a four-course tasting menu starting at €90 ($97). It gained its Michelin Star in 2021, being rated as a “modern, elegant restaurant”, and, as ever in Trani, the service is truly excellent.

Keeping up the theme of family businesses, a personal favorite is the superb Quintessenza, housed in a stylishly refurbished white-stone palazzo overlooking Trani’s magnificent medieval castle. It gained its Michelin Star in 2016. Here, the four Di Gennaro brothers put an incredible level of detail into producing innovative takes on.…

By Jon Fleming

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