I was about to bite into a beignet, those delectable, deep-fried pastries that are icons of the New Orleans culinary scene, when my guide on the Bienville Bites Food Tour stopped me.
“Wait! You forgot the lemon.”
Lemon? Who puts lemon on a beignet?
Residents of Mobile, Alabama, do, and that’s where this food tour took place. To my surprise, the citrus juice melded with the powdered sugar on the warm pastry, forming a delicious, gooey icing. Sorry, New Orleans, but this beignet from Panini Pete’s was the best I’ve ever had.
In Mobile, Alabama, beignets are served with lemon | Photo: Tracey Teo
Unlike the yeast-based dough in New Orleans, this drop dough goes directly into the fryer without being rolled out. The beignets come out in fluffy layers, like a croissant.
New Flavors, New Ports
American Cruise Lines’ inaugural Gulf Coast sailing ended in Pensacola, Florida | Photo: Tracey Teo
This culinary adventure was a popular experience offered by American Cruise Lines on its inaugural Gulf Coast cruise that sailed from New Orleans to Pensacola earlier this month. Ports of call in Mississippi included Gulfport, Biloxi, and Ocean Springs on a 7-night itinerary that also took us to Mobile.
The American Symphony stops in Gulfport, Mississippi | Photo: Tracey Teo
The 180-passenger American Symphony is part of a fleet of 28 modern riverboats and small ships that sail exclusively on American waters. This ship carried mostly Baby Boomers who appreciated the relaxed atmosphere on board, a contrast to the party vibe on many oceangoing ships that carry thousands of passengers.
Big-ship amenities like indoor skydiving simulators or rock-climbing walls hold no appeal for this senior crowd. Card games in the Sky Lounge and region-focused lectures from an onboard historian are more their speed.
Many are no longer interested in international travel because of long, uncomfortable flights and jet lag. American Cruise Lines offers an opportunity to see more of the United States at a leisurely pace.
On the downtown food tour, I caught up with passenger Pat Garren, 86, as she nibbled a fried green tomato. She traveled extensively with her husband Bill before he died a few years ago. Now, she cruises on her own and finds it easy to meet people on small ACL ships.
“The reason I’m interested in traveling only in the United States is that Bill and I were on 67 cruises and visited 112 countries. I’ve been everywhere and seen everything,” she said. “I’m not interested in crossing the ocean ever again.”
Sweet Hearts, Secret Histories
The food crawl was one of many shore excursions that illustrated both the cultural differences and similarities in the cities and small towns along the Gulf Coast.
As we made our way to the next stop, we learned that Mobile is over the moon for Moon Pies, the Chattanooga-made snack that consists of two chocolate-covered graham cracker cookies with marshmallow filling.
The sweet treat is a coveted Mardi Gras “throw” (the trinkets tossed from floats).
Those new to the region may not realize that Mardi Gras is celebrated all along the Gulf Coast and isn’t exclusive to New Orleans.
Mobile is the birthplace of Mardi Gras, hosting the first organized celebration in 1703, years before New Orleans.
The Mobile Carnival Museum chronicles Mardi Gras history in Mobile | Photo: Tracey Teo
To learn more, I stopped by the Mobile Carnival Museum, an outing that wasn’t part of an organized shore excursion, to peruse the dazzling collection of lavish costumes worn by Mardi Gras royalty over the years.
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When the ship docked in Gulfport, passengers had a view of fishing boats bobbing in the harbor and a replica of the historic Ship Island Lighthouse.
Gulfport, Biloxi, and Ocean Springs are a string of Mississippi towns included in a 62-mile stretch of shoreline called the “Secret Coast” because of its off-the-radar beaches. Each has its own personality.
Biloxi is known for its waterfront casinos, and a few passengers tried their luck. At night, Beach Boulevard (Highway 90) glitters. Landmarks include a 12-foot-tall, illuminated guitar at the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino and the Margaritaville Resort Ferris wheel that goes around in a dizzying kaleidoscope of colors.
Ocean Springs is an art lover’s paradise, with galleries dotted around the walkable downtown area.
A shore excursion to the Walter Anderson Museum of Art introduced passengers to the legacy of the reclusive Ocean Springs artist. He was largely ignored during his life (1903-1965) but was recognized posthumously for his genius after hidden portfolios of his work were discovered. He is widely praised for his watercolors of Gulf Coast flora and fauna.
The Mississippi Aquarium in Gulfport offers dolphin encounters | Photo: The Mississippi Aquarium
Speaking of Gulf Coast fauna, I got up-close-and-personal with my favorite marine mammal at the Mississippi Aquarium in Gulfport. I interacted with Finn, the smallest of four playful bottlenose dolphins. He captured my heart the moment his “smiling” face popped up to greet me. From the side of the pool, I mimed reeling in a fishing line. The genial creature imitated the sound with high-pitched vocalizations and was rewarded with a fish. When it was time to say goodbye, he offered a hand (fin) shake.
It wasn’t my only dolphin encounter on the journey.
A dolphin-watching tour that departed from Pensacola, our final port, was a cruise highlight. As our boat sailed along the pristine waters of the Gulf Island National Seashore, the captain pointed out landmarks like the Pensacola Lighthouse and Fort Pickens, a Civil War stronghold on Santa Rosa Island, but he lost his audience when a nursery pod of bottlenose dolphins started leaping through the emerald waves.
When it comes to raising their young, mama dolphins believe it takes a village. Females join forces because there’s safety in numbers against predators, and they can always count on an “auntie” to babysit. Mothers have even been known to nurse calves that aren’t their own.
It was fascinating to observe their natural behaviors in the wild with no reward from humans.
Back on the ship, I headed to the River Lounge for cocktail hour where I ran into Pat again.
“I just signed up for two more cruises,” she said with a laugh. “This is absolutely the best way to see the United States.”
American Cruise Lines has 28 ships visiting nearly 150 ports of call across 35 states. For more information, consult American Cruise Lines or your travel advisor.
