Eat, Heat and Sleep In Istanbul

So Here’s The Meal

We are never ones to be shy about noshing into the food culture and Istanbul serves up a treasure trove of culinary delights. As we have done in so many other destinations we reached out to the food experts at Culinary Backstreets to set the table for a six hour journey into the back alleys and the cafes of the local scene. 

We met up with our guide Ugur near a kiosk at the foot of the Galata bridge and set off on foot through a colorful alleyway of sidewalk shops hawking a mashup of plumbing supplies, fishing gear, hoses, electronics and various nuts and bolts. …..Wait…isn’t this supposed to be a food tour?

Ducking into a bustling hallway with men toting boxes of building materials on their backs, Ugur motions for us to have a seat at a single table in the corner. With a knock on the adjoining door, a man emerges, takes note of our group, nods and returns with six glasses of tea. As it turns out, this single table serves as a makeshift private club where local laborers sit and sip a glass of tea. As Ugur produces a bag of freshly baked smit, a sesame crusted Turkish version of a bagel, we become honorary members. 

It’s local color at its best but we have places to go and more food to sample. With a stroll under the bridge and through a maze of market stalls we arrive at an obviously very popular bakery for sampling a savory type of turnover, one with a cheese/spinach filling the other a seasoned beef, both encased in a flaky phyllo dough wrapper. A quick bite and a few steps later we step into  a hole in the wall shop, clamber up a narrow stairway and are promptly served a quintessential Turkish coffee. It’s potent and delicious but what’s left at the bottom of the cup is likely where the phrase ‘here’s mud in your eye’ comes from!

The real estate of Turkiye holds the unique distinction of residing on two continents, Europe and Asia, separated by the Bosphorous Strait. Embarking a ferry boat, we cross over to the Asian side and wander through an open air fruit, fish and vegetable market before munching our way through an extravaganza of regional dishes and mezes passed down through family traditions. To finish off a gorge fest of seafood it’s time for a toast with Raki, a crossed rendition of Ouzo, Sambuca or Pastis.  “Serefe” (cheers)!   Here’s to Culinary Backstreets for a memorable day of Two markets, Two Continents