Cruising the Guadalquivir

by Steve Leland

Thousands of ladies in festive flamenco dresses, arriving in a mile-long parade of horse-drawn carriages, have come to celebrate Feria de Abril de Sevilla, the annual Seville April Fair. Hundreds of decorated private and public tents line the streets, lights gleam, and flamenco music fills the air as attendees revel in the city’s spring tradition. This unique celebration is just one event in a week-long exploration of Andalusia aboard CroisiEurope’s La Belle De Cadix.

During our recent CroisiEurope safari cruise in Africa, it came to our attention that the cruise company offered a cruise on the Guadalquivir River in Spain. Although I had cruised worldwide cruise destinations for 45 years, this unique itinerary departing from Seville had somehow never made it into my travel playbook. Rarely will you find a mode of travel that reveals the authenticity of Andalusia more than this cruise journey in Spain.

This particular adventure came with a truly European aura augmented by 138 multi-national guests. Our group of 14 pampered English-speaking guests were provided with exclusive coaches and guides, plus a designated hostess with personalized assistance. These elements create an ambience of privilege, all at a cost that won’t break anyone’s cruise budget.  

Launched in 2005, La Belle De Cadix defies its age with an immaculate aesthetic and a smiling, attentive crew. With formality and opulence tossed aside, this cruise is casual yet meets the high standards of river cruising.

Viva España

Cordoba | Photo: Steve Leland

While a majority of Spain’s spectacular interior destinations are generally accessed by train or plane, this multidimensional river journey boasts amazing immersion into the region’s history and culture. This is an all-inclusive vacation, where complimentary excursions play a pivotal role.

Casually strolling through the city of Córdoba on the first morning is an opportunity to view the colonial architecture and colorful patios that line the narrow streets. After a delicious Andalusian lunch in a typical taberna, our guide reveals the city’s mesmerizing splendor with a visit through the Mezquita Catedral de Córdoba, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This massive religious structure is an emblem of the Muslim, Jewish, and Catholic cultures that have expressed themselves here over the centuries.

Gliding along with the southward flow of the Guadalquivir, our arrival in the coastal city of Cádiz is followed by a private coach trip to nearby Jerez de la Frontera. Here, guests enjoy a spectacular equine performance that validates the affinity residents have toward their beloved Andalusian breed of horses. Walking the streets of Jerez is a journey into this city’s historical past; back in Cádiz, we experience the grandeur of the Old Town on an afternoon walking tour. 

Shortly after the next morning’s departure, our vessel travels to a port in the suburbs for a tour through the famed Osborne Cellars. Sherry tasting, tapas, and a comprehensive explanation of the facility’s darkened cellars reveals the treasured traditions of this region’s fruit of the vine.

Equine Flamenco dancing | Photo: Steve Leland

Retracing our journey up the river, the ship ties up at Isla Minima alongside an authentic working hacienda. A demonstration of flamenco dancing between horse and human in the property’s bullring is a unique twist on regional traditions. Music, snacks, dancing, and savoring the area’s revered sherry put finishing touches on the afternoon.

Granada’s Alhambra | Photo: Steve Leland

  No city captures the region’s historical significance better than Granada, especially with a full-day tour exploring the iconic Alhambra. With the towering, snow-covered Sierra Nevada range looming as a backdrop, the complex’s Moorish architecture, ornate palaces, and sprawling gardens paint an indelible picture of 13th-century grandeur. 

Sensational Seville

With so much to see and do in Seville during Feria week, it comes as no surprise that there’s less river navigation than I’ve experienced on other river cruises. The city explodes in life with every corner exposing something different and appealing. Extravagant architecture, quaint sidewalk cafés, and horse-drawn carriages are mere sideshows to the guided tours of the impressive Alcázar and Palacio de las Dueñas.  

Surrounded by a sprawling and forested park, the inspirational Plaza de España was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. This architectural masterstroke features decorative bridges, gilded towers and columned galleries. Ceramic walls that burst with color depict events in Spain’s historical past.

CroisiEurope’s excursion program is a hallmark of the cruise but the onboard life complements the experience. The upper deck is spacious with a walking track, swimming pool, and lounge chairs. The main lounge is surrounded by windows and hosts welcome-aboard and farewell cocktail parties as well as flamenco shows, dance music, and daytime activities.

The restaurant serves an à la carte breakfast and set-menu lunch and dinner. Meals display a touch of French and Spanish influence and the gala dinner goes well beyond expectations. In keeping with tradition, the Spanish night featured a savory paella and a selection of Iberian specialties. Three rosé, three white, and three red wines are offered during lunch and dinner along with an open bar for beer and cocktails.  

We had barely finished this cruise before we mapped out our next CroisiEurope fling from Luxembourg in July. This inaugural cruise of the MS R.E. Waydelich L.J. will cruise the Rhine and Neckar Rivers. 

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