The Charms of Coimbra

While the bustling capital city of Lisbon, the rolling hills of the Douro Valley, and the scenic beaches of the Algarve are some of the most popular spots to visit in Portugal, the cozy and quaint town of Coimbra is worth a visit all on its own. One of the country’s oldest cities, nestled amid the vastly picturesque landscape of central Portugal, Coimbra boasts the trifecta of travel: rich history, undeniable charm, and vibrant culture. 

Perfectly Portuguese

Once the capital of the country, the city of approximately 150,000 people is the perfect spot for travelers seeking natural beauty, stunning medieval architecture, a variety of flavors, tempting shopping, and traditional music. Perched on either side of the winding Mondego River, the city’s riverfronts are robust with green spaces such as the tree-lined Parque Dr. Manuel Braga and the adjacent Parque Verde do Mondego. Both serve as top spots for recreational activities, city events, and more. Connecting the north and south side of the city is the unique Pedro e Ines footbridge which features two cantilevered walkways that meet in the middle and have clear, colored panels that, depending on the time of day, create vibrant patterns on the span. 

Leave the slight bustle for a bit and cross the bridge to catch a game of canoe polo or walk to the ruins and museum of the Santa Clara-a-Velha convent. This mosteiro was destroyed by flooding in the 17^th century and replaced by the Santa Clara-a-Nova convent (velha=“old”; nova=“new”) just a short walk up the road. Be prepared to head uphill but then be rewarded with a splendid view of the river and the cityscape. Also close is the stunning and uber-historic Quinta das Lagrimas Hotel, which has several restaurants and courtyard gardens that make for a perfect stop to sample a cool beverage or tasty snack before heading back over the bridge.

Local Flavors

Before the sun sets, ask a local for another great viewpoint and you will surely hear about the popular Passaporte. The walk up to the restaurant and bar is a bit challenging but worth every inclined step for the impeccable service and striking views. Even if the offerings come with a heftier price tag compared to other spots in town, all of Portugal is reasonably priced so splurging just a little shouldn’t break the bank and delectable dining anywhere in Coimbra shouldn’t, either. 

On the lively Rua da Fernandes Tomas Street, you’ll find plenty of cafes and restaurants offering local cuisine including chanfana, a traditional Portuguese stew made with goat or lamb slow cooked in red wine. Another local favorite is the leitao a bairrada, a roasted suckling pig usually served with homemade potato crisps and orange slices. Both are hearty, satisfying, and popular with locals as well as travelers. It’s also impossible to leave Coimbra without having bacalao, the salted cod that is found in so many local dishes. One popular favorite at the tascas (Portuguese taverns) are the pasteis de bacalhau, small codfish cakes, usually round or oval in shape, that are deep-fried and served with lemon for zest. On the sweet side, try the pasteis de santa clara (named after the convent where they originated) found at dozens of pastry shops and cafés around town. Or, sample the sometimes-gigantic suspiros, meringue puffs made primarily from egg whites and sugar and piped into delicate, cloud-like shapes that make them even more fun to eat. Top any of these off with a ginja, the country’s local liqueur made from sour cherries and often served in an edible chocolate shot cup. 

Moving Sidewalks

Walk off the delicious food (and sweets!) meandering around quaint squares surrounded by colorful buildings featuring medieval styling and some of the decorative tilework that Portugal is known for. Relish the not-always-faint sound of traditional fado music — consisting of one voice, one Portuguese guitar, and one viola — seeping .… 

By Elizabeth Martinez

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This is an excerpt from the latest issue of Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine. To continue reading, click above for a digital or print subscription.