In keeping with our “Summer of Somewhere Else” travel, we found ourselves cruising through the serpentine waterways that wind their way through the islands of the Coiba National Park off the northwestern coast of Panama. It’s only natural to relate cruising in Panama to transiting the canal, but I couldn’t have imagined an adventure into an unspoiled paradise like this.
Isla Coiba. | Photo: Steve Leland
We had experienced Kontiki Expeditions’ unique boutique style of cruising two years ago on an Ecuadorian coastal cruise, and had planned on eventually taking part in their successful Costa Rican itineraries. When an introductory cruise to these secluded Panamanian island retreats was announced, we could wait no longer.
Arriving on a flight from Panama City to David, Panama, we were met by Andres, who escorted us to our transfer bus. We drove through rural villages sprinkled along the mountainous roads and arrived in the sleepy fishing village of Boca Chica. A short tender ride delivered us to our base of operations: Kontiki Wayra.
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No ordinary expedition vessel, this 18-passenger yacht incorporates a significant dose of neo-luxury along with a spirit of fun-loving adventure.
Outdoor sofas on M/V Kontiki Wayra. | Photo: Steve Leland.
The beautifully designed contemporary lounge, elegant staterooms, and exceptional spaciousness on the upper-level sundeck are all worthy of praise. Add in a hot tub, outdoor sofa seating, and even gym accessories, and you have the making of a great destination on its own. But we’re here for an expedition, and the activity starts immediately after boarding.
A warm greeting by the ship’s crew is soon followed by “all ashore that’s going ashore,” as tonight we’re invited to the exclusive Isla Palenque Resort for a welcome dinner. Shortly after our tenders dock at the resort’s welcome center, set on a black-sand beach flanked by foliage, we are driven along a winding dirt road through dense palms, arriving at the resort’s restaurant set deep in the jungle.
Palapa roofs that protect the dining tables give rise to an authentic tropical vibe, and eight secluded casitas with convenient access to a deserted beach provide a stage for the blazing sunset.
Thinly sliced grouper ceviche. | Photo: Steve Leland
Thinly sliced grouper ceviche, beef tenderloin, and fresh catch of the day supplemented by traditional appetizers give we diners a culinary experience of regional authenticity.
An “expedition” is generally described as “a journey taken for the purpose of learning something new” and our intrepid itinerary boldly checks that box. Snorkeling over colorful reefs reveals the biodiversity of the area’s marine life. A mid-morning picnic is set up on a white-sand beach, and after lunch is served on board, it’s off on a Zodiac exploration to observe breaching humpback whales. And this is just Day One.
Seeking out the sea-nery
With luxury on the sea and adventure in the trees, we sought out howler and white-faced monkeys and the endemic giant rodents called agouti on a nature hike through a jungle that resembles Jurassic Park. We experience a dark chapter of Panamanian history with a visit to the now closed and derelict Coiba Island Penal Colony followed by a wildlife exploration through the mangroves. The air was thick with humidity and with bird calls emanating from the trees as we ventured into what could easily have been a nature documentary.
In addition to the excitement of the excursions, snorkeling adventures and daily shuttles to remote beaches, Wayra’s full complement of water toys provides outstanding aquatic enjoyment. Slipping over the side of the yacht and zipping down the massive inflatable water slide is a thrilling experience, and the large floating platform lowered into the sea makes for convenient access to paddleboards and kayaks. Four SeaBobs (high-tech motorized water scooters) are a huge hit, gliding guests across and under the waters of the Pacific.
Marine toys on Kontiki Wayra. | Photo: Kontiki Expeditions
Automated twin doors open onto the stylish coziness of Wayra’s lounge and dining area. Breakfasts and lunches with regional specialties are served buffet-style, but when the sun sets, colorful plating and full-service dinners feature local seafood as well as steaks, pork, and chicken followed by delectable desserts.
We came for the views and left with stories that will outlast any souvenirs. For those that are passionate about expedition travel, the barefoot comfort of Kontiki Wayra blends seamlessly with a thoughtfully curated cultural exploration of an untouched island paradise, where sustainability and respect for nature takes center stage.
Isla Coiba | Photo: Steve Leland
