The Mummies and Yummies of Cairo

Visiting Cairo offers an introduction to over 4,000 years of history, making it essential to see the iconic Pyramids of Giza, the Sphinx, and other ancient treasures. Don’t miss the captivating Mummy Room in the Egyptian Museum, where you can view King Tut’s golden mask. The Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM), the world’s largest archaeological museum, is now open, showcasing over 250,000 relics of the past.

However, as this was my third visit to Cairo, I was eager to explore beyond the typical tourist attractions and indulge in the city’s culinary scene. Turning to the food tour experts at A Chef’s Tour, I sought to satisfy my craving for regional delicacies.

Our late afternoon journey began at the main gates of Al Azhar Mosque, a historic landmark commissioned in 970 as the capital of the Fatimid Caliphate. This served as my first taste of Cairo’s rich history, but I was ready to eat. Our guide Loay outlined our itinerary, and we navigated through the bustling crowds of afternoon shoppers and street vendors in Old Cairo.

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Our first stop was a street café specializing in crispy falafel patties, served with cucumber and coriander salad, all wrapped in pita bread. It was a delightful and unique appetizer. After passing vibrant shops selling colorful fabrics, we settled at another local venue to enjoy koshari, a carb-heavy dish of mini macaroni, lentils, and rice, topped with crispy fried onions. Diners choose from a basic tomato sauce, spicy chili, or garlic vinegar; koshari is typically sold exclusively at places dedicated to this dish.

We then ducked into the labyrinthine alleyways of Old Cairo, winding through a small vegetable market and visiting a spice vendor who explained the array of spices used in Egyptian cooking. As we navigated narrow passages lined with lingerie shops, all staffed by male clerks, we pondered whether this was an answer to the question of what lies beneath the often unflattering black burka—perhaps an Egyptian version of Victoria’s Secret.

We squeezed into a three-table kiosk amid the pedestrian traffic to sample hawawshi, a pita pocket stuffed with minced lamb, onions, and herbs, baked like a Mexican quesadilla. Further down the street, we encountered a line of locals at an unassuming counter. A man accepted foil-wrapped dishes for cooking in a massive oven. Loay explained that many residents lack space or electricity for ovens in their modest apartments, so they bring their prepared meals here, paying a dollar or two for the service.

The pedestrian paths were shared by tiny shops selling quilted blankets, motor scooter repair shops, food vendors, and tuk-tuk taxis, capturing the essence of Old Cairo street life. There was a butcher, a baker, and likely a candlestick maker somewhere.

Next, we sampled feteer baladi, a cross between pizza and crepe. This light, flaky pastry is stretched thin, folded over, and baked in a domed brick oven. It can be filled with meats and vegetables, or—as we chose—brushed with butter and dusted with powdered sugar. Sweet and satisfying! Later, we took a seat in a small grotto where we enjoyed tender, oven-baked lamb alongside mulukhiyah, a thick green soup made from mallow leaves. While the soup may not be universally loved, the delicious lamb balanced its unique flavor.

Forget Michelin stars; we concluded our culinary journey under the stars with a cup of authentic Egyptian coffee and a thought-provoking conversation with Loay. There were no caramel mocha lattes or pumpkin spice options—just genuine Egyptian coffee. Today, I walked like an Egyptian, savoring a food tour that goes beyond simply being led and fed. It’s A Chef’s Tour approach to understanding Cairo’s historical significance, enriched by complex flavors that most tourists will never experience.