Petiscos, Pasteis, and the Prato do Dia

Traditional Portuguese food is made up of a profusion of seductively mouthwatering options so deciding what to have takes time. Don’t worry though, you won’t go hungry while you work through the menu. Tables come set with a selection of olives, pats of butter, pate and bread, with diners only paying for the items they consume. 

At lunchtime patrons linger over prato do dia, the daily set menu, while at night they debate the a la carte. Main meal portion sizes, called dose, are huge so don’t be afraid to ask for a half dose, unless you plan to share.

Oenophiles take note, the house wine in Portugal is usually unexpectedly good. Made by the owner’s uncle, cousin or other relative in their home village, many use indigenous grape varieties not available outside the country. 

Bacalhau à brás

No guide to Portuguese food would be complete without an homage to bacalhau, the humble cod. Salted and sold in long wide sheets, its mild, succulent, flaky white flesh is extremely popular in Portugal. So much so you can eat it 365 days in a row and never have the same dish twice. 

Bacalhau à brás is a staple. First, the cod is sautéed with onions, then shredded. Next, small pieces of fried potato are added in and eggs whisked through the lot, gently cooking until silky smooth. Chopped parsley and a handful of olives scattered over the top complete the dish.

Leitão assado

Leitão assado no forno, to give its full name, is a young suckling pig roasted in a woodfired oven. A coating of garlic and other seasonings is rubbed into the skin followed by constant basting during the cooking process to keep it moist and juicy. When done, the flesh is so tender it almost falls off the bone. 

Cozido à Portuguesa 

The first written recipe for cozido à Portuguesa appeared in the late 17th century but this thick hearty meat and vegetable stew most likely originated much earlier, when poor farmers made it from whatever was at hand. Today, the best versions combine beef, pork ribs and ears, smoked sausages like linguiça (spiced with paprika, chili, and garlic), assorted root vegetables, and cabbage, served with rice. It’s not for the faint of heart and best consumed at lunch followed by a nap, or at night after a long day of sightseeing.

Arroz de pato

Rice-based dishes are plentiful in Portugal, and arroz de pato, literally ‘duck rice’, is one of the stars. Pieces of duck are quickly pan seared then placed in a rich broth of onion, carrot, garlic, and.…

By Lisa Morrow

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