One of the highlights of European cruising always used to be gliding into the Venetian Lagoon: seeing the domes of St. Mark’s Basilica and the gleaming marble of the Doge’s Palace come into view as ships got to sail unbelievably close to the timeless treasures of La Serenissima. However, in 2021, the city authorities decided to ban all but the smallest cruise vessels from sailing up the Giudecca Canal, so that passengers wanting to visit Venice now have to settle for ports away from the historic center — industrial Fusina or Marghera, or a long bus ride in from more distant ports like Trieste or Ravenna.
But, for Venice-lovers all is not lost — because strong traces of the Venetian Empire are there to be found all around the Mediterranean, in some of the most picturesque ports you can find on today’s cruising itineraries. In fact, following the path of Venice’s empire can be a great way to structure a cruise that combines fascinating history, impressive architecture, and superb settings … while in most cases avoiding the inflated prices and crowds that can make visiting Venice a little draining.
An Adriatic Empire
In the late Middle Ages, Venice controlled Europe’s trade with the East, and its maritime empire spread along the Adriatic coast and beyond, to cover territory in six modern-day countries aside from Italy. You can discover the symbol of the Winged Lion of St. Mark adorning formidable fortresses and impressive churches in hundreds of ports ranging from Croatia to Crete. Fortunately for modern cruisers, the Venetians seemed to specialize in choosing the most spectacular islands and coastlines to set up their trading centers, usually adorned with colorful Gothic and Renaissance architecture that wouldn’t look out of place in Murano or Burano.
Perhaps pride of place for Venetian beauties belongs to the stunning Croatian coast, which is dotted with so many historic ports that effortlessly evoke La Serenissima, while doubling as trendy beach towns sitting on the blue waters of the crystal-clear Adriatic. (You don’t get such glorious swimming opportunities like this back in Venice!) From the elegant pointed bell towers of impeccably-preserved Rovinj, to the monumental entrance gates of walled cities like Zadar, to tiny Trogir that almost looks like a film set…. A favorite of the well-heeled crowd is the upmarket island of Hvar, overlooked by an imposing Venetian fortress. The medieval atmosphere of the stunning island of Korčula even claims to be the birthplace of the great explorer Marco Polo himself (a claim hotly disputed by Venice, of course). Croatia really is prime cruising territory.
Just up the Adriatic from Croatia, on the tiny Slovenian coastline, is a lesser-known collection of Venetian ports. Slovenia may only have 29 miles of coast, but in the attractive towns of Piran, Koper, and Izola, you could easily think you were still in Venice — each one of them centered around a tall campanile that’s a miniature version of St. Mark’s own bell tower. Picturesque Piran is the undoubted gem of the “Slovenian Riviera,” while more industrial Koper backs up its Venetian credentials by being the birthplace of the renowned Venetian artist, Carpaccio.
And below Croatia, in the tiny country of Montenegro, you’ll find possibly the most evocative relic of Venetian times outside of the Lagoon, in the gorgeous little town of Kotor — a walled gem of a city dominated by a precipitously-sited fortress perched on the steep mountain high above the town. What makes a visit to Kotor so special is the spectacular approach to your berth, sailing through the mirror-like waters of the narrow Kotor Fjord — an incredibly sheltered position that explains why this was such a prized Venetian possession.
Fortified Outposts
The further you get from Venice, the more heavily….
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This is an excerpt from the latest issue of Porthole Cruise and Travel Magazine. To continue reading, click above for a digital or print subscription.
