Easy, cheap, and unforgettable is how the overland trip by train through Uzbekistan could be described. This is a unique journey that takes you from the Kyrgyzstan border directly to the Uzbek capital of Tashkent and on to the ancient Silk Road capitals of Samarkand and Bukhara. Whether you’re an art, architecture, history, or nature enthusiast … a foodie or a fashionista … a travel junkie or a trainspotter — there are thrills and adventures to be had in Uzbekistan for every visitor.
All Aboard
I crossed the Uzbek border from Kyrgyzstan by foot and grabbed a seat in a $5 shared taxi to the nearest train station in the city of Andijian, Uzbekistan.
Trains run twice daily between the spick and span station at Andijian and the capital city of Tashkent. There are frequent trains from Tashkent to all locations in Uzbekistan, but I decided to take the overnight train from Andijian directly to Bukhara on the other side of Uzbekistan. This particular one only runs a few times a week; bookings can be made on the official website: https://railway.uz/en/ (in English).
Uzbekistan Railways has modern, high-speed trains from Tashkent but for the long-distance, slower travel, they still use original Soviet train carriages. These old trains are rare time capsules and a memorable travel experience. All trains in Uzbekistan, like the rest of the country, are extremely safe. There is a first-, second- and third-class option. For the very reasonable prices you may as well enjoy the first-class experience if you are traveling overnight. You get your own sleeper cabin (book in advance for these) which are comfortable but hardly luxurious, decorated in their original wood paneling, with light switches that are often out of commission and lace curtains on the windows. Complimentary Uzbek tea is provided, as is clean bedding. These older trains don’t have phone chargers, so bring a battery if you so wish.
The famous bazaar street in Khiva. | Photo: Aleksey-stock.adobe.com
Day-time trips in the shared platzkart are sociable; you’ll meet friendly Uzbek travelers with their families, eager to hear where you are from and how you like Uzbekistan, and who will want to share their delightfully fresh lepeshka bread and sunflower seeds with you. Don’t forget to pick up snacks to share. Each carriage has a buffet car with a dining area and above-average hot meals available: local cuisine such as lagman noodles and chicken, as well as lighter fare. An electric samovar means if you bring your own mug or flask you can have hot drinks throughout the trip. Toilets are basic, but at least they have them. (BYO toilet paper and wipes, a standard guideline for Central Asian travel.)
Seeing the Cities
The train goes through the Fergana Valley then stops at Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, and Nukus. Having passed through this wonderful landscape of farms, mountains, deserts, rivers, and local towns, you’ll be itching to get out and explore.
Tashkent, Uzbekistan’s modern capital, is a haven of Soviet-era architecture and the seat of government and commerce — a sea of prefabricated Communist apartment blocks and shiny new buildings. Little remains of the city before 1966, when it was hit by a devastating earthquake. While not much of Uzbekistan’s splendid history can be found in the capital, an Uzbek cultural adventure is only a train ride away. You can travel throughout Uzbekistan from Tashkent and continue on to Kazakhstan, Russia, Tajikistan, and, in summer months, Kyrgyzstan.
There is one special feature of Tashkent that makes it worth a day trip: the Tashkent Metro network. A delight for lovers of Soviet art and architecture, the underground rail system was constructed from the 1960s after the great earthquake, and each station is uniquely themed. Stations are dedicated to Uzbek culture and life during the Soviet Union and decorated accordingly in a grand fashion: cotton production, space exploration, Uzbek poetry, Russian literature, Uzbek art. A Metro ticket costs less than 25 cents for a journey; at this price, you can ride the entire network.
And next, for the jewel in Uzbekistan’s crown: magical Samarkand. The Silk Road was an ancient trade route linking China to the Mediterranean, and Samarkand was its most sophisticated stop. Conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 BCE, Samarkand was a cosmopolitan city with a rich history influenced by its former Chinese, Persian, Greek, Jewish, Russian, and Turkish inhabitants over the years. It became a capital of fine craftsmanship and Islamic religious studies, the legacy of which remains in its beautifully maintained ancient mosques, mausoleums, and madrassa schools, most of which are opened to visitors. The Registan in the center of town is a splendid….
By Terry Elward
